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Crate Training and Housetraining

Crate Training

A dog's crate not only prevents behavior problems (chewing, housesoiling, destructiveness, digging, escape behavior, garbage raiding, etc.) but also serves as a home or den for the dog. Crate training is neither cruel nor unfair. On the contrary, leaving the dog unsupervised to wander, investigate, destroy, and perhaps get injured is far more inhumane than confinement. As long as the crate is big enough, the dog gets sufficient exercise and attention, and it is not left in the crate longer than it can control itself, the crate is a safe, secure, and humane place to confine a pet when unsupervised. Keeping a dog outside in a yard confined to a pen or dog run, or in a room that can be properly dog proofed are also acceptable alternatives. Crate training has a number of important advantages:

• Security: A contented dog spends time sleeping, grooming, or chewing a favorite toy in a secure favorite location.
• Safety:Since dogs, especially puppies, have a strong desire to investigate and chew, the crate, like a child’s playpen, is an excellent way to keep a dog safe when the owner can't supervise. Dogs which are allowed to investigate may got into medicine chests, diaper pails, garbage cans, kitty litter, etc. Some dogs have even gone through drywall or glass windows trying to escape.
• Prevent costly damage: With their instinctual desire to chew, investigate, dig, escape, scavenge, and of course eliminate, dogs are capable of doing a great deal of damage. A secure inescapable confinement area can prevent costly damage.
• Prevent behavior problems: Besides preventing destructive behaviors, crate training also can prevent barking at doors and windows, jumping onto furniture or counters, housesoiling and entering inappropriate rooms or areas of the house.
• Correct behavior problems: In order to correct problem behavior, the dog must be supervised so that proper behavior can be rewarded and undesirable behavior can be punished. Since no owner is capable of 24-hour monitoring, the dog should be kept in a confined area, such as a crate, when the owner is not available to supervise.
• Train proper chewing and elimination:Since most dogs will not soil their “den” crate training is one of the best ways to teach a dog to control elimination. The dog also can be directed to chew on appropriate objects by placing selected toys in the crate.
• Reduce barking: Another common problem is crying when the owner and puppy are separated (especially nighttime). Using crate-training techniques, the puppy can be taught to spend time alone in its crate. Some owners may prefer to allow their puppies to sleep in their bedroom (in the crate) where it is less likely to vocalize.
• Improve dog/owner relationship: Since crate-trained puppies require less discipline for misbehavior, cause less problems and frustration for the owners, and are much less likely to cause damage, the pet-owner bond likely will be stronger.
• Traveling: Since most crates are collapsible or portable, they can be taken on trips to securely and safely house the dog.

Crate Training/Housetraining for Puppies

• A metal collapsible crate with a tray floor works well as long as the crate is large enough for the dog to stand, turn and stretch out. Some dogs feel more secure if a blanket is draped over the crate. A plastic traveling crate or a homemade crate also can be used. Playpens or barricades also may be successful as long as they are indestructible and escape proof.
• Because dogs are social animals, an ideal location for the crate is a room where the family spends time such as a kitchen, den, or bedroom rather than an isolated laundry or furnace room.
• For the crate to remain a positive, enjoyable retreat the dog should never be placed in the crate for punishment; if time-out is used as punishment a washroom, laundry room or basement can be used for social isolation.
• A radio or television may help to calm the dog when it is alone. They also help mask environmental noises which can stimulate the dog to vocalize.
• Introduce the puppy to the crate as soon as it is brought home and as early in the day as possible. The crate should be left open so that the puppy can voluntarily enter the crate for food, water, toys or shelter. By making all crate experiences pleasant, the puppy should feel secure and comfortable in its crate.
• Choose an outdoor location for the puppy to eliminate. A short direct route is best. Take the puppy to the location, wait until the puppy eliminates, and award the puppy lavishly with praise or food. After some play and exercise, place the puppy in its crate with water, a toy and a treat and close the door.
• Leave the room but remain close enough to hear the puppy. It is normal for pups to cry or whine when separated from, their “pack”. Escape behavior and vocalization are to be expected when a dog is first placed into its crate. If the escape behavior is short or mild ignore the dog until the crying stops. Never let it out unless it is quiet. This teaches that quiet behavior will be rewarded and that crying cannot make the owner return.
• Punishment may be necessary if crying does not subside on its own. For punishment to be successful, it must be harsh enough to stop the behavior and withdrawn as soon as the dog is quiet. A shaker can (a sealed can filled with coins or marbles) can be tossed at the crate when the pup barks. Other forms of punishment include water sprayers or loud sounds (alarm, airhorn, Barker Breaker, Yapper Zapper, PetAgree). If possible, the owner should remain out of sight when administering punishment. By plugging in a tape recorder, Water Pik or hair dryer beside the crate and turning it on by using a remote control switch each time the dog barks, the dog can be taught that barking leads to punishment whether the owner is present or not. When the barking ceases, the punishment is stopped. Bark collars and alarms that go off automatically each time the dog barks are also available for persistent or difficult problems. Any type of punishment must be used with caution, however, since it can exacerbate the vocalization problem of a very anxious pet.
• Place the puppy in its crate a few times before the end of each day. Each time, increase the time that the dog must stay in the crate before letting it out. Give the puppy exercise and a chance to eliminate before locking it in the crate.
• At bedtime, the dog should be exercised, locked in its crate and left for the night. Do not go to the dog if it cries. Remote punishment can be used to deter crying. Alternatively, the crate can be kept in the bedroom.
• If the puppy sleeps in one end of its crate and eliminates in the other, a divider can be installed to keep the puppy in a smaller area.
• Never leave the puppy in its crate for longer than it can control itself or it may be forced to eliminate in the crate. If the puppy must be left for long periods during which it might eliminate, it should be confined to a larger area than the crate. As the puppy gets older, its control improves and it can be left longer in its crate.
• When the puppy is indoors it must be constantly supervised for any signs of elimination. If the puppy begins to sniff the floor, circle, or squat, it should be taken directly to its elimination spot and awarded if it eliminates. If the puppy is caught in the act of eliminating the owners should administer an appropriate punishment (a startling No or punishment device) to reduce the chance of the puppy eliminating in that location again. Very harsh punishment should be avoided or the puppy may be reluctant to eliminate in front of the owner anywhere, even outdoors. Immediately take the puppy out to the proper location and give a lavish reward if its eliminates. If the puppy eliminates in an inappropriate location and no punishment is administered during elimination, the puppy likely will return to that location to eliminate. Only with constant supervision can the owner catch the puppy in the act every time it eliminates in an inappropriate location.
• Although there is a great deal of individual variability, many puppies can control themselves through the night by three months of age. During the daytime, once the puppy has relieved itself, a two-month-old puppy may have up to three hours control, a three-month-old puppy up to four hours, and a four-month-old puppy up to five hours.
• Until the puppy is housebroken, it should be confined to its crate whenever the owner is not available to supervise. Once the puppy has completed four consecutive weeks without soiling anywhere in the house, the owners ran begin to decrease supervision, particularly during the first hour when the puppy comes indoors after eliminating.
• Be certain to take the puppy outside to its elimination site regularly, particularly when it has just finished playing, eating, napping, before bedtime or if any pre-elimination signs are seen. Reward the puppy lavishly for using the right area. Teaching the puppy to eliminate in a single location outdoors is far simpler and much more practical than trying to teach a puppy not to eliminate in thousands of different locations outdoors.
• The puppy can be taught to eliminate on command by repeatedly giving cue words ("Hurry up") in an upbeat tone during the act of elimination.
• Using a leash indoors to keep the puppy nearby not only aids supervision but helps the puppy learn to signal the owner when it needs to go outdoors to eliminate. The puppy quickly learns that if it eliminates in front of the owner indoors it will be scolded. It has to eliminate but can't sneak away from the owner because of the leash; it is placed in a conflict situation. This results in anxious fidgeting or vocalizing. The pet should be taken outdoors. Eventually, the puppy will learn that if it approaches the owner and fidgets or vocalizes, it will be taken outdoors to eliminate and be rewarded.

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When to see your vet:

Five reasons to see your veterinarian today

• Bleeding from anywhere
• Vomiting with a loss of appetite
• Acute pain – including eyes (squinting)
• Respiratory difficulty
• Sudden and extreme lethargy

Five reasons to see your veterinarian tomorrow

• Acute lameness
• Intense itching
• Decreased appetite
• Increased thirst or urination
• Persistent diarrhea

Five reasons to see your veterinarian soon

• Decrease in weight
• Change in activity levels
• Hair loss
• Bad breath
• Chronic lameness

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PetFit Challenge

PetFit Challenge

Pet owners understand that obesity is about more than appearance. Scientific evidence shows that obesity is a condition that can lead to serious disease. In conjunction with the AVMA and Hill’s our hospital is focused on raising awareness about the right way to achieve and maintain healthy weight:

• Proper nutrition
• Increased physical activity
• Regular veterinary visits

Click on the link above for tools to help you increase your pet’s activity, decrease their weight and start them living a happier and healthier life!